🐍🩶🐢

E! I love watching videos on it. Mark Rober’s player piano was pretty cool.

Movies nobody asked for.

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I gave up on TP-Link. I will never purchase any consumer router from them again. Little to no updates, connection issues that were made worse with an update, features REMOVED with an update, settings wouldn’t always stick, which results in a factory reset to get it to do anything. WPA3 just doesn’t work. It even would “mysteriously” turn it’s DHCP server back on, no matter how many times I turned it off, when it was in AP mode. Friend had the same model and most of the same issues.

I have had better luck with the other brands, but I feel like most of them suck or cost way more than they should.

I hate that! Especially when it was the correct version and then magically one day it is some other one. One time it played that awful pop version of Professional Widow by Tori Amos and that was very upsetting until I found the normal version that sounds awesome.

It was the SCADA view right? A lot of SCADA software is basically running on top of windows, though you typically would never see the desktop. Ignition at least is cross platform, but that is because the server is Java and Jython. A big part of why things are running on windows is due to OPC, which was traditionally all DOM and .NET. It is basically a standard communications protocol and is what allows your HMI/SCADA to communicate with PLCs. Otherwise, you use proprietary drivers and native PLC specific protocols.

SCADA programming/design is kind of an art and is usually written by an either an overworked engineer or someone who had far too much time on their hands. You basically build screens using specialized software, hook up buttons and UI elements to PLC signals, and pass some signals from the UI to the PLC. They are all heading in the Edge/iot/cloud/web based/techno-babble direction these days…

Ignition, programming software is free!: https://inductiveautomation.com

Some other random ones I have seen or used in the past: https://www.siemens.com/global/en/products/automation/simatic-hmi/wincc-unified.html https://www.aveva.com/en/products/intouch-hmi/ https://www.rockwellautomation.com/en-us/products/software/factorytalk/operationsuite/view.html

Ok. Let’s do this! If you have a 4 cup pyrex/microwavable measuring cup, it is much easier.

• Sauce pan with a lid. Nonstick is fine.
• 2 cups of rice using dry measuring cup
• 3 cups of water
• Salt if using unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons of butter

1. Put empty pan on stove and set heat to medium-high. If these are steel pans, stick to medium. Go towards high if nonstick as it takes a bit to heat up.
2. Put water and butter in microwavable cup and throw it in the microwave until it starts to simmer, maybe 3 minutes? Depends on microwave and dish.
3. While you are waiting on microwave, put dry rice in pan and gently stir/fold. They will start to turn white, but don’t let them burn. If you need to take the pan off and turn the heat down, do it. We are just preheating the rice and pan up. Add salt if needed.
4. Get ready. As soon as that water is hot enough to boil or close to, take it out, pour it in the pan. It will be violent.
5. Do a quick stir, throw the lid on, and turn the heat down to the lowest setting. The water should fully cover the rice.
6. Walk away. The bottom might toast a little, but that is fine as long as it doesn’t full on burn.

After 20 minutes or so, you can do a real quick check and if it looks kind of wet, throw the lid back on and wait.

At this point, you should have perfectly acceptable rice. Take the lid off, stir the rice with a more folding motion to let it steam any additional moisture out.

I have been shopping this way ever since the start of covid and only use self check out. It is a lot easier to get around the store. If I need to buy a bunch of heavy stuff or there is a sign asking me not to, I will of course use a small cart or hand basket. I am not going to piss off the Trader Joe gods when I visit it occasionally, who have a sign about it.

I have never been stopped, asked not to, or have been given any looks from the staff for doing it at my main grocery store.

If you want an actual good reason? Car damage. I have seen them roll away into someone else’s car, and even a person. They can also block parking spots and it really sucks when people in the handicap section do it as those then roll in to other spots needed for accessibility. Thankfully my store has tons of cart returns so it isn’t even remotely inconvenient. The employees stay on top of the rest, especially if the handicap section right by the doors gets gnarly. The only time I see some true cart carnage is at Walmart. Those parking lots are terrible.

I can’t make decisions for you, but I will politely ask you to put the cart away the next time you are at the store. Please and thank you.

🎶Little Mary Sunshine🎶

I love this movie. Reefer Madness.

Yeah, I have Russia and a few other countries blocked on my network. That is a no-go for me personally.

No idea about which specific type of business it is, but keeping that history long term can have some benefits, especially to outside people. Some government agencies require companies to keep records for a certain number of years. It could also help out in legal investigations many years in the future and show any auditors you keep good records. From a historical perspective, it can be matched to census, birth, and death certificates. A lot of generational history gets lost.

Companies also just hoard data. Never know what will be useful later. shrug

Me too! I have used it for a couple other non-rpi devices in the past as well. It is super simple and works on my Mac. I haven’t even looked at other utilities in years.

UL certification can mean different things, depending on the product and type of mark. It also isn’t that expensive to get UL listed as it isn’t like every single item you produce is tested. Each product you design is tested, but not each item you produce.

There are 3/4 types. UL listed, UL recognized, and UL classified. Certified is newer and more stringent.

• Recognized is mostly for machinery and components within machinery. It isn’t terribly difficult to get, but annoying. I have dealt with this type as we design and build electrical panels. Usually you hand the design to a panel builder and they will get it certified before delivery.
• Listed is for products and appliances, and is fully tested for safety. This applies to most consumer electronics.
• Certified Enhanced is also for products, and you can read up on it here: https://www.ul.com/news/qa-uls-enhanced-certification-mark
• Classified is for products and is half ass tested. All it means is that some requirements for UL were tested and passed, but not all.

If a product is Classified by UL, this can mean its testing meets the particular requirements for a single test with a published result, but has nothing to do with all the other tests that may form part of a Standard (i.e., UL 181).

As for pricing for UL listed, it can be just a few grand for a single product. Not much when you are selling thousands. I am sure Classified is even cheaper. I wonder how many of these cheap ass lamps say Classified.

No idea which phone you have, but dbrand does carry a decent amount of models. However, it is mostly limited to Apple, Google, Samsung, and One Plus. It does suck trying to find some things though. I do try to get things directly from the manufacturer website when it makes sense, but sometimes Amazon IS their website.

Crowdstrike took Debian and Rocky down earlier this year due to a bad update… Linux is not immune.

Everything runs 24/7, but now I am thinking about theoretical power saving modes. Besides any built in power saving whatever (a little clueless), you could always throttle the CPU more. Not sure if it would be worth it without testing with a power meter.

We had a student run server for piracy at my University to get copied textbooks from, but even then we had to sometimes look elsewhere. I often couldn’t afford books and not all professors allowed the cheaper used previous editions.

Science textbooks were the worst with their stupid fucking online code bullshit so we could do homework. They even made it where you could buy just the code, which was something like $70. Still better than 300+, but JFC. Having to spend over $1000 for books that you are only going to use for 10 weeks was nuts.

The last saving grace we had is all textbooks were required to have at least one copy in the library that could not be checked out/removed. You could photocopy the homework pages that way. If your classmates were nice, they would let you borrow theirs to copy any pages too. You could also buy your textbook, copy what you needed, and return it within the return window.

Me too!

Sorry, didn’t make it home until today and not sure if you get notifications on edits. You will need a monitor and keyboard hooked up to your server as you will not have ssh access until the network config is “fixed”. I would do the below with the GPU removed, so you know 100% that your networking config is correct before mucking about further.

Step 1 - Create 99-default.link file

Add a /etc/systemd/network/99-default.link with the below contents.

# SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT-0
 #
 # This config file is installed as part of systemd.
 # It may be freely copied and edited (following the MIT No Attribution license).
 #
 # To make local modifications, one of the following methods may be used:
 # 1. add a drop-in file that extends this file by creating the
 #    /etc/systemd/network/99-default.link.d/ directory and creating a
 #    new .conf file there.
 # 2. copy this file into /etc/systemd/network or one of the other paths checked
 #    by systemd-udevd and edit it there.
 # This file should not be edited in place, because it'll be overwritten on upgrades.

 [Match]
 OriginalName=*

 [Link]
 NamePolicy=mac
 MACAddressPolicy=persistent

Step 2 - Reboot and find new name of NIC that will be based on MAC

I forget if you have to reboot, but I am going to assume so. At this point, you can get the new name of your nic card and fix your network config.

1. ip link should list all of your nic devices, both real and virtual. Here is how mine looks like for reference, with the MAC obfuscated:

1: lo: <LOOPBACK,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 65536 qdisc noqueue state UNKNOWN mode DEFAULT group default qlen 1000
    link/loopback 00:00:00:00:00:00 brd 00:00:00:00:00:00
2: enxAABBCCDDEEFF: <BROADCAST,MULTICAST,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 1500 qdisc mq master vmbr0 state UP mode DEFAULT group default qlen 1000
    link/ether AA:BB:CC:DD:EE:FF brd ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff
3: vmbr0: <BROADCAST,MULTICAST,UP,LOWER_UP> mtu 1500 qdisc noqueue state UP mode DEFAULT group default qlen 1000
    link/ether AA:BB:CC:DD:EE:FF brd ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff

Step 3 - Fix your network config and restart network manager

You will need to edit your /etc/network/interfaces file so the correct card is used.

1. Make a copy of /etc/network/interfaces, just in case you mess something up.
2. sudo vim /etc/network/interfaces (or whatever text editor makes you happy) It will need to look something like below. I have to have DHCP turned on for mine, so your config likely uses static. Really all you need to do is change wherever it says enp yada yada to the enxAABBCCDDEEFF you identified above.

 source /etc/network/interfaces.d/*

 auto lo
 iface lo inet loopback

 iface enxAABBCCDDEEFF inet manual

 auto vmbr0
 iface vmbr0 inet dhcp
 #iface vmbr0 inet static
 #address 192.168.5.100/20
 #gateway 192.168.0.1
     bridge-ports enxAABBCCDDEEFF
     bridge-stp off
     bridge-fd 0

3. Restart your networking service. You shouldn’t need to reboot. sudo systemctl restart networking.service

Step 4 - Profit?

Hopefully at this point you have nework access again. Check the below, do some ping tests, and if it doesn’t work, double check that you edited the interfaces file correctly.

1. sudo systemctl status networking.service will show you if anything went wrong and hopefully show that everything is working correctly
2. ip -br addr show should show that the interface is up now.

lo               UNKNOWN        127.0.0.1/8 ::1/128
enxAABBCCDDEEFF  UP
vmbr0            UP             192.168.5.100/20 

At this point, if all is well, I would reboot anyways, just to make sure. If you add any GPUs, sata drives, other PCI device, disable/enable wifi/bt in the BIOS, or anything else that changes the PCI numbering, you don’t have to worry about your NIC changing.